SOHCHonda.com: What you need to Boost your D Series (kind of a HowTo) - SOHCHonda.com

What you need to boost your d series

there are pleanty of write ups out there, but most of you are too lazy to search... so here is

one more to make it easier on you lazy bastards.

list of poop you need.

manifold
turbo (i like dsm turbos, they are cheap and everywhere)
downpipe (2 flanges and some 2.5-3")
oil lines
water lines (optional)
charge pipe
intercooler (optional)
a blow off valve
some larger injectors (dsm 450's work nicely)
a resistor or some rat shack 10W 10 Ohm resistors
a chipped ecu (if your obd1) or you can run a hack if you obd2, but i suggest converting to obd1
a boost gauge
get a roll of vacuum hose and a small box of t fittings

thats really all you need here are some pics and descriptions of what your looking at.



now i am going to make this real easy on you

the manifold is marked with the BLUE square
the turbo is marked with the GREEN square
the charge piping is marked with the RED square
you can see the oil feed and just to the left of the GREEN square
(i dont have water lines)
AH, i almost forgot that you need to tap that ass, i mean oil pan
the stealthmode kit comes with the shit for that. if your true homemadeturbo style you will JB Weld it, if your not as getto you will braze the fitting to your oil pan.

IMPORTANT
make sure you keep the fitting above the oil level in the pan, and that oil drain does not make a J or have a dip in it.
the O2 housing and down pipe re marked with the YELLOW square
the blow off valve has that ghey TEAL color. i have this mounted directly to the intercooler, but you can put it anywhere on the charge pipe.
the intercooler is marked with ORANGE. which by the way is what i like to call the FMSMIC (frount mounted side mount intercooler)
in PURPLE, you can see the rat shack resistors wired in line with the dsm injectors. the dsm injectors are a little larger than the stock honda ones. so you will need to enlarge the opening on the rubber gromits a little bit.
the GREEN circle (sorry, ran outta colors) shows were to use the T fitings to pull vacuum from

for your boost gauge and BOV.

as for running the dsm injectors, i suggest having your ecu chipped (hey, i do that) and running

uberdata or crome. you can run up to 11psi on the stock map sensor.

now, the ugly part... how much does all this cost?
the manifold
BmC racing has logs for 160

flanges for your down pipe can be picked up at RRE for about 10 bucks eachhttp://www.roadraceengineering.com/flangesandgaskets.htm

oil lines and the feed adaptor for the back of the block can be picked up as a kit for 75 dollars from
http://www.stealthmo...e.com/oil.shtml


you can get intercoolers off ebay pretty cheap. the one in the pic is a 2nd gen DSM SMIC that i paid 40 dollars for, or you can get something like this from streetimports.com for about 220 shipped


for the bov, there are lots of companies making knock offs now and selling them on ebay. im a cheap ass, and i say get one of those. they range from 50-130 ish... or you can pick up a 1st gen DSM for 30-40.

the resistors should cost about 8 bucks, and you can get the dsm injectors for around 50-60 beans. i suggest dsmtrader or homemadeturbo.com for the injectors

now for the turbo... if your like me, you never pay full price for anything, and almost never buy new
again dsmtrader and homemadeturbo.com will get you a decent turbo for 100-200 dollars. or you can stop by your local scrapyard and see what they have laying around.

T's and hose shouldnt cost more than 10 beans at your local auto parts store.

tubing for the charge pipe can be picked up at a local store, or RRE, or EBAY... whatever. it shouldnt cost you more than 120 dollars

i think all that leaves is the gauges, ebay or your favorite tuner shop/online store. an autometer should cost about 50 dollars.

ok, lets do some math
160 + 20 + 75 + 40 + 50 + 8 + 50 + 150 + 10 + 120 + 50 = 733

not bad... oh and then the price for me to chip your ecu

zero that sweater gets sexier everytime i see it~!!


nice n00b helpin write up :!:

nice work 0.


dont forget to take notes eric.

m. :grin:

Me likey. Good, simple, yet detailed system description.

Now, for my turbo noobness questions:

what values for the resistors?

what size charge piping?

What are the specs on the oil line kit? Wait, found it on stealthmodeperformance

stealthmodeperformance.com said:

Otherwise, nice sweater.....I mean article.

10W 10 Ohm (i thought i said that)

and the charge pipe there is 2" but you could probably use 2.25+ depending on how much power you are looking to make and how much boost yoru going to push.

http://www.spooledmo.../usedturbo.html

used, cleaned and checked for shaft play turbos from $155 to $245, free shipping to lower 48 states with a 30 day guarantee to make sure your turbo works.

nice link man

Zer0DazE said:

My bad you did say 10W 10 Ohm -

Thanks for the info.

Zer0DazE said:

...and nice write up to you!

1. you dont need a BOV. your turbo will just stop spoolin between shifts.
2. that intecooler is mounted in the worst place you could possibly do it.
3. that bov also is mounted in a horrible place


thats my $.02
decent write up though.

please explain you comments about the worst positions

no wait, let me prove you wrong before you type something again.

after researching where race teams used to put bovs on their cars back in the 80's it seems to be agreed upon that on the intercooler is the best place to put it.

and i assume, that you assume the ic is getting heat soaked sitting where it is. there is a temp probe in it, and it is usually 2 deg above outside temps. yes, in standing traffic it heats ups about 10 deg, but with in a half mile of driving the temps are back down again.

oh, but you are kind of right. you dont need a bov for low boost applications.

junkyard racer said:

although it isnt a nessecity to run a BOV on a low boost setup it still has advantages to run a BOV as it prevents/minimises the stalling.

however on a higher boost application it is far more essential, its not just a case of the turbo stalls but more a case of it can damage it when it does stall as the exhaust is still forcing the turbo round while the inlet is stopping it spinning.

i realise that you probably know this, but some people reading this might not :cool:

junkyard racer said:

ummm....the turbo stops spooling in the time it takes you to shift gears???? Never heard of that one. I mean, I dont have a turbo(yet), so I could be wrong. Wouldnt it try to spin backwards from the pressure build up in the intake manifold/charge pipe if you didnt have a BOV?

and I'm with John and 88...why dont you state your reasons/offer solutions with your comments instead of just saying someone else's are wrong? Back up your statements. Or can you? Is that why you didnt?

95z6exCoupe said:

its called surge


anyhow i dont see how anyone would not wanto run a BOV, just bc you can do something doesnt make it a good idea. you could run your turbo D on a basemap for a month, doesnt mean its a good idea either

the best place to put a bov is as close to the throttle body as poss so to allow easier exit for all the charged air in the charge pipes if the bov is mounted on the intercooler the charged air between the ic and the t/b will have to change direction the exit via the bov yes a bov isnt needed when running low boost but is highly recommemded when boost reached the 10/11psi mark as the trapped boost during gear changes puts a lot of stress on the turbo by stalling it almost immediatly as there is nowere for the charged air to go and there is no 'stretch' in the metal pipes that are used nowadays a bov is as zero said realily available for very cheap and is more than anything there to help the turbo's lifespan aswell as giving the engine less turbo lag during gearchanges as when the bov is open the turbo is still spinning and producing boost.


im not turbo on my d-series yet but have raced renault 5 gt turbos for many years so i know stuff about them

1 question though on other diy write ups they modify fueling another way cant remember what its called now but they also use something on the map sensor to prevent the ecu giving you a cel when the engine is on boost
dont you need this when tuning from the ecu

...most of the ways "fool" the map sensor by bypassing it basically-kind of ghetto.

with uberdata(or any stand alone), it uses the stock map sensor up to ~8-10psi I think, the factory map will read boost to a point, but only if the ECM tells it to(i.e. it has a map to read for it). after these levels tho, you need to get an aftermarket map sensor, or one off a car that was intended for more boost. I may be a little off track here, but this is what I've gathered in my research, or at least how my mind put it together #-o

no need to debate. i have my reasons, thought id share. if you wish to go with them, more power to you, if not, so be it.

i know whatever i say someone will have some shit to say about it, which is why im not gonna post anything else about what i said. i learned pretty much most of what i know by searching, so other peeps can to. 99% of everything ive learned has been applied, and found very useful.

junkyard racer said:

actually the bov is mounted in the right place. You want it before the intercooler.

junkyard racer said:

do you ever stop talking out your ass?

"i have my reasons"
your full of shit, you know nothing but what others have said. you regurgitate what people on hmt have told you.

put your brain in gear before setting your mouth in motion man.

if you have something constructive to say, then say it. no one will "say shit about it". but to this point you havent posted anything constructive.

junkyard racer said:

WTF??? I wasnt even responding to you. bigmrg asked a question, and I offered an answer(something you have yet to do). WTF is your problem man? Like zero said, you have offered absolutely NOTHING to this conversation at all. You've got some serious self esteem issues cause you're getting all defensive all the time.

You learned all of your stuff by searching-then fine. So did I. But a lot of us on here have learned/shared info with each other for the last 2-3 years on here, and I must say its a rarity to have an a**hole come on here and say he's the greatest, or knows this and that-without backing up any of his statements.

Jesus, go play in someone elses sandbox if you cant play nice.