[spdweb.net]

Ok so my 00 accord has developed some awful clack/knock noise in the block at certain RPM. 95k miles. There is a video in a post in general tech about it. I went ahead and ordered up some new Crank, Rod and thrust bearings. Pulled the old out and this is what I found.

The down side is that since I got in there I think its the balance shafts that are making the noise but we'll see. All is not lost because those rod bearings were certainly worn.

Some wear on these but I dont know if it would be enough to be audible or not. The awesome news is that all the bearings were yellows accept for #2 which was green.. and you can tell by the amount of wear that it was slightly looser then the other 3 sets so I should be golden with these one size fits all bearings. (which I think are all yellows) I am not micing any of this stuff up.. its all just throw and go. FizzGiGG style!

Bottoms look fine.. Tops.. not so much.

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Now on to the Mains! Its 103F in my garage right now.. SUCH FUN!

[spdweb.net]

Well that was just an absolute nightmare. The rod bearings went in perfect. Swapped out the mains and OOP the crank binds. COME ON!

Chain of events.

Old bearings out (all yellows)
New bearings in
Torqued the caps down in three staged
1) snugged
2) 22Ft Lbs
3) 58Ft Lbs
Crank was bound. Would turn.. but not what I would call "freely"
Backed the bolts out by about 30 degrees and it spun nice and free.
Re torqued them to about 55Ft Lb and all was well.

(Theory)
Instead of using engine oil to lube the bolts like the book says.. I used anti-seize. Just about the same stuff that ARP uses. This being a lot slicker then oil means that using the books specs yields more clamping force at the same torque.
I am pretty sure I am ok at 55Ft Lb vs the 58 called for but I guess we'll see.

They will either wear in or spin! They are quite free now though... if I turn the crank pulley to a compression stroke the compression itsself rotates the crank back so no binding there.

[Jesse (Fizz)]

I don't like the antiseize idea, but should be OK.

[spdweb.net]

Jesse (Fizz), on 06 July 2010 - 08:51 AM, said:

I don't like the antiseize idea, but should be OK.

They were compleatly dry when they came out. I didn't want to put them back in dry but I should have just used oil.

[The_Acid_Beaver]

Oil>anti-sieze for that application.

The rod bearings were wearing. I would back off the timing a weeble.

That first thrust bearing is dating Abby Normal.

[spdweb.net]

The_Acid_Beaver, on 08 July 2010 - 01:53 AM, said:

Oil>anti-sieze for that application.

The rod bearings were wearing. I would back off the timing a weeble.

That first thrust bearing is dating Abby Normal.

Yeah, there is something not quite right there.
I can't back off timing.. I wish I could, because it needs it, but its a non adjustable Hitachi distributor.

The worst part is the engine still makes the exact same noise I tore it all down for. The only thing thats left is the small end of the rods, or balance shafts, but the balance shafts spin a lot faster then the crank so I am thinking they would make more of a chattering sound then a knocking.
Judging by the thrust washer I was thinking maybe the crank walked which would wear out the little end of the rods but then the rod bearings would also be worn un evenly across which they are not so I am really at a loss as to what it is. At least now I can tell you what its not though LOL

[The_Acid_Beaver]

WTF? There is no timing adjustment what-so-ever?

[spdweb.net]

The_Acid_Beaver, on 08 July 2010 - 10:26 AM, said:

WTF? There is no timing adjustment what-so-ever?

Cant turn the distributor, its bolted solid. The TEC distributors are adjustable.. the Hitchachis generally are not.

No cam angle sensor in the car. Everything has been moved to the crank.. meaning base ignition timing 'should' always be static. No need to adjust for belt stretch, etc.

I do not agree with this design however. The problem is all engines wear differently.. its like none adjustable carbs.. they always work great from the factory.. but once things start to wear you need that adjustment.

The car could stand to have some ignition timing pulled.. it runs uber lean and has a hint of spark knock on real hot days but there is nothing I can do about it. It's 100% OEM down to the NGK plugs and Honda air filter, so I guess thats the way Honda wanted it. I am not a fan of this car to be quite honest.. I think its a lemon.

[The_Acid_Beaver]

Geez. On my Legend that has a distributorless ignition, there is an adjuster to set the base timing. WTF? This is so annoying.